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11 juli 2010 »
Je kunt het rubber ruiken als je op de hoes van ‘The Akron Compilation’ op het bandenprofiel krast. Na 32 jaar werkt de Scratch ‘n Sniff-techniek nog steeds. Oudere LP’s hebben een wat muffe geur. Een benauwde kelderlucht die lijkt op warm stof in een buizenradio of de atmosfeer in de Kienholzbar in het oude Stedelijk. Afbeeldingen op sommige hoezen roepen weer geuren op, of omgekeerd, schieten omhoog als ik iets ruik.
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No.19 (Chanel)
“It’s said that Henri Robert composed No. 19 for Gabrielle Chanel when she was in her eighties, and a striking and admirably dissonant portrait it is, from the silvery hiss of it’s nail-polish-remover from it’s beginnings to it’s poisonously beautiful green-floral heart. (Unfortunately, it now lacks its former leathery chypre intensity that used to increase with time, petering off instead into a clean vetiver ending similar to the anti-climax of the current Calèche.) For a fragrance with so many springtime references, all white blossoms and leafy greenery, no. 19 never lands you in any Sound of Music meadows. It keeps you in the boardroom, in three-inch stilettos and a pencil-skirt suit. Haughty and immune to sweetness, with a somewhat antiseptic air, this extraordinary perfume appeals to any woman who has ever wished to know what it is to be heartless.” TS
A&M Records 395 127-1 The Lover Speaks: “The Lover Speaks”.
Foto Matt Mahurin
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Neroli Sauvage (Creed)
“Creed excels at conventional accords done with good raw materials, and this fresh, green, woody neroli is one. No great shakes, but works like it says on the can and smells good.” LT
VOX The Cadet Glee Club West Point. Cover: Courtesy US Army Signal Corps
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Eau Sauvage (Dior)
“I always forget how good this darned thing is. Part of the reason I do’nt wear it is that it reminds me of my youth. Also, it is a touch louder than I feel comfortable with. Eau Sauvage broadcasts itself quite far by being written in an intrinsically legible type, a sort of Garamond of smell. Great perfumers play with the cologne idea the way Prokovief used eighteeth-century structures in his First Symphony; take the familiar and, as if it were those Transformers my son plays with, turn the horse-drawn carriage into a spaceship. What Roudnitska did to cologne here is threefold:
1. Add a slug of a pine-needles-and-rosemary accord, which the Italians did so well in postwar marvels like Acqua di Selva and Pino Silvestre.
2. Use his own trademark Vietnamese-salad accord.
3. Famously be the first to lubricate the whole thing with hedione, a floral material that can wet the driest lips.
I’ve heard perfumers say there is so little hedione in Eau Savage that attributing ES’s succes to it was a bit like attributing Jascha Heifetz’s skill to the Guarneri he played. Either way, a masterpiece.” LT
PHILIPS 76.527 Les Frères Jacques: “Les Frères Jacques…”. Photo Guilbaud
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Femme (Rochas)
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“Some deep principle seems to be at work here: when you cheapen the formula of a big classic feminine, it morphs into a masculine. This suggests (1) that boys’ fragrances have always been cheap stuff and (2) girls have expensive tastes. Either way, Femme, now a shadow of its former self, has grown a mustache and might as well be called Homme. That said, nice woody floral with lactonic notes.” LT
ECM Double Image: “Dawn”. Foto Christian Vogt
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Parfumcitaten uit:
PERFUMES
The GUIDE
Luca Thurin & Tania Sanchez
Profilebooks, Londen 2008
Plaatsen/Stemmen op:
